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Tokyo Eateries, Part 3

Almost there, final part of Tokyo eateries…

4. Tsukiji Fish Market, Tokyo

A must-do when you are in Tokyo – Tsukiji fish market is the world’s biggest fish and seafood wholesale market. Tsukiji handles nearly two tons of marine product per day and I have never ever seen anything quite like it.

‘The Mother’ and I rocked up just after 7am, we did try waking up at 4.30am so we could be there by 5am but no chance! We walked around the fish market and were in awe. Tourists flock here all year round, to see and to visit the sushi restaurants which have long queues. I was told that it is one of the top places to have sushi and sashimi. Some have even queued for two to three hours for a meal!

Two famous restaurant at Tsukiji – Daiwa Sushi and Sushi Dai. The queue for Sushi Dai was absolutely ridiculous so we opted for Daiwa Sushi. Apparently it is a larger restaurant out of the two so the queue moves faster.

After about 30 mins, we were finally in! We both opted for the Omasake meal (3900 yen) and our meal started with the fatty tuna – and WOW! The texture of the fatty tuna was just incredible, creamy and perfectly marbled, glistened with moisture! The squid was a little chewy but still tasty.

The miso soup, thick and full of flavour with a heap of clams nestling was just lovely. Probably one of the tastiest miso soup I have ever had.

Sweet raw shrimp and chutoro (belly area of the tuna along the side of the fish). I was not a fan of the raw shrimp so traded that with ‘The Mother’s’ sea urchin. The chutoro was divine, so fresh and deliciously fatty but not as fatty as the tuna previously.

Next, the sea urchin and tamagoyaki. It was a tad early to eat sea urchin! It was cold and slimy but incredibly fresh! Two servings of it – yup – way too early! The delicious block of tamagoyaki was to die for! The sweetness, the texture, the fluffiness, I could have easily eaten two on my own.

The hamchi sashimi was deliciously thin and fresh. And the tuna and salmon sushi roll was just delightful.

Last but not least, the eel, it was the most tender I have ever eaten.

The sauce enjoyably sweet and I enjoyed it SO MUCH that I had to get another at (1000 yen extra!) and was SO worth it! Heavenly, even at 8am in the morning!

It was one of the most expensive breakfast we have ever had – 9000 yen for breakfast, AUD 110. The fish was marvelous, the rice fabulous. It was a tad early for sushi, that much rice in the morning was a challenge but I have to admit, it was worth it and I am glad I went!

GA’s ratings: 8.5 / 10

‘The Mother’s’ ratings: 8 / 10

Building 6, 3rd alley,
If you can’t find it, look for 2 restaurants right next to each other with massive queues of people.

3. Best Ramen I have ever tasted, Kyushu Jangara, Harajuku

A dear friend of ours is a regular visitor to Tokyo. He goes there at least twice or three times a year and when I asked him for some food recommendations, Kyushu Jangara was on top of his list. I had to promise him that I would go and have one of the best ramen he has ever tasted and how can I break that promise?

Kyushu Jangara specializes in Hakata style ramen – thin noodles in a pork broth. They serve tonkotsu-style ramen with a broth richly flavoured by slow-simmered pork belly with the bones still attached (MY KIND of broth!).

I opted for the Kyushu Jangara with the lot – flavoured boiled egg, chunks of marinated pork, and seasoned cod roe. You can also order it plain but I wanted the lot! The meltingly tender pork belly was just to die for, the pork shoulder succulent, flavoured boiled egg was cooked to perfection and seasoned cod roe is like icing on a cupcake! It was simply divine. I wanted to order an extra serving of marinated pork, but thought that would be an overkill.

The noodles are thin, angel hair pasta and properly al dente. You can order more noodles for an extra 150 yen. The broth was one of the best I’ve ever tasted. It’s rich and complex, I kept wanting more and more. I still can taste the delicious stock and yummy ramen until now.

‘The Mother’ had everything minus the seasoned cod roe and for him to say that it is the best ramen he has ever had is a big call! He is not usually a fan of ramen but the broth is also one of the best he has ever had. He still raves about it now to his friends and family. It was THAT good!

Kyushu Jangara is located just one minute walk from Harajuku station and it’s a must visit if you have not been. I have been to a couple of ramen places in Sydney, and Kyushu Jangara by far is the best! They have English menu so ordering will be easy for first timers. This place is BUSY but turnover is quite quick. Come early to avoid the queues or a little later.

A bowl of delicious goodness – the BEST bowl of ramen I have ever had!

GA’s ratings: 8.5 / 10

The Mother’s ratings: 8.5 / 10

Kyushu Jangara – Harajuku

Shanzeru Harajuku II 1-2F, 1-13-21 Jingumae,

Shibuya-ku, Tokyo

Ph: +81 3 3404 5572

2. Kaikaya by the Sea, Shibuya

H and S invited ‘The Mother’ and I to dinner that evening with a couple of their Australian friends who were visiting. They were all going skiing or snowboarding the next day for a whole week in Niseko and judging from their facebook posts, I think they had a wonderful time!

One of their friends, K, is also a foodie and he recommended this place, Kaikaya by the Sea. As we had a large group, thirteen of us, we had to get the set menu and I have to say, it was one fantastic meal! Kaikaya is reasonably small restaurant.

We started with the red snapper carpaccio, fresh raw sashimi drizzled in balsamic vinegar, olive oil and crunchy fried garlic bits. This was absolutely wonderful and a great start to what was to come!

The deep friend shrimp salad in delectable cream sauce was fantastic! The basket was crunchy and crispy and tasty!

Next the sashimi platter – I wouldn’t be able to name all the different types of sashimi but they were deliciously fresh and sensational.

The crab spring roll was light, crispy with big chunks of crab ad vegetables. The lemon gave it that extra zest.

I can’t remember what this dish was but it was creamy and snail like – it probably was snail!

The next dish is the house special dish, tuna collar which tastes like pork spare ribs. Apparently it is supposed to imitate the pork spare ribs but it is actually tuna collar. Huge chunks of meat which was incredibly succulent and incredibly tender and served in some sort of red-wine sauce. It was EPIC!

The sizzling garlic steak served with a touch of freshly ground wasabi root was divine! The steak just melted in your mouth, I couldn’t help but want more.

Next the tuna jaw – wow – big chunks of tender meat, a little bone-y but delicious!

The raw beef sushi tasted a little like tuna. It was delicious and just melted in my mouth. AMAZING!

The miso soup with large chunks of fish was full of flavour and would have to be one of the best miso soup I have ever had.

To end, the matcha cheesecake was deliciously light and fluffy with strong matcha flavour. It was incredible – a perfect way to end this epic meal with friends.

The restaurant was cozy but buzzing. It was fun and had a rowdy environment. Kaikaya is a real gem and thanks K for taking us to this wonderful restaurant!

GA’s ratings: 8.5 / 10

‘The Mother’s ratings: 8.5 / 10

Kaikaya By the Sea

23-7 Maruyama-cho

Shibuya-ku, Shibuya, Tokyo

Ph: +81 3 3770 0878

Last but not least, the best meal for me in Tokyo Coucagno, French Restaurant in Shibuya.

I had originally wanted to go to La Rochelle, Chef Sakai from Iron Chef’s restaurant but due to me leaving everything to the last minute, it was fully booked! I had booked two weeks in advance, and even then that was not enough, seems like everyone wanted to try the restaurant.

Disappointed, I searched the internet and read the lonely planet in search for a restaurant for our last meal in Tokyo. We were catching the red eye back home and thought we would go somewhere nice for lunch. I had left everything so late, I was afraid nothing was available!

Coucagno, a restaurant on the 40th floor in the Cerulean Tower in Tokyo. The view was amazing, similar to that of New York bar and Grill at the Park Hyatt but in day light.

‘The Mother’ and I rocked up to Coucagno in Shibuy as we (I shoud say I) were shopping there. We were seated immediately, the restaurant was three quarters full, and we got a table by the window to admire the view.

‘The Mother’ wasn’t feeling well so opted for a main only, whereas I was ravenous and opted for menu a prix fixe (4,100 yen) which consists of appetizer, soup, either a fish or meat dish, dessert and coffee or tea.

We were offered with a selection of bread, sour dough, brioche, baguette and many more. The bread was warm with crunchy exterior but soft and fluffy on the inside.

I started with the baked beaufort-cheese with confit of duck and potato terrine with green mustard sauce. This was beautifully coked, big cuts of duck meat which were succulent mixed with potatoes. The green mustard was wonderful, I wanted to lick the remaining of the mustard off the plate – classy!

The hot soup of the day was mushroom, it was creamy, thick with strong  flavour which I loved.

For mains, I opted for the caramelised suckling-pork with capellini and celeriac salad – surprise surprise. The suckling pork was delectably succulent and sweet, it was simple but superb. It was a relatively small serving, but probably a good thing! Too much of this would have made me sick.

‘The Mother’ opted for the sauteed sea bream, with grilled provence vegetables, herbs and vinegar sauce. It was beautifully plated on the table. I had a small mouthful of this, the sea bream was firm but yet tender, and the herbs and vinegar sauce was a great complement.

For dessert, I opted for the pineapple dessert – thinly cut pineapple, paper thin, served with fresh strawberries and kiwi fruit cut into bite size pieces and mango sorbet. It was fantasticly light and refreshing and the perfect way to end a wonderful meal at Coucagno. It was o u t s t a n d i n g.

We also had petite fours – as full as I was, I couldn’t help but eat the pistachio nougat. ‘The Mother’ ate the dark chocolate and macaroon and he thought it was great.

The service attentive, glasses constantly filled, and bread unlimited. The menu is modern french with a touch of a Japanese. My meal was delicate, wonderfully presented and delicious. I certainly enjoyed my meal, it a wonderful way to end a brilliant trip.

GA’s ratings: 8. 5 / 10

‘The Mother’s’ ratings: 8 / 10

Coucagno

26-1 Sakuragaokachō Shibuya-ku 40th fl, Cerulean Tower

Shibuya, Tokyo

Ph: +81 3 3476 3000

It was an amazing trip, caught up with some wonderful friends, shopped and most importantly ate some delicious and outstanding food!

Hope you have all enjoyed reading it as much as I have written it. Definitely miss Tokyo and can’t wait to go back again.

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Tokyo Eateries, Part 2..

More on the Tokyo eateries…..

7. Genpin Fugu, Shinjuku

One thing I wanted to eat in Japan was FUGU! Also known as puffer fish, it can be lethally poisonous due to its tetrodotoxin, a poison that is 1200 times more lethal than cyanide. It only takes a small amount to kill a person and each blow fish contains enough to kill 30 people, therefore has to be carefully prepared. I am not quite sure what my obsession with fugu is but I HAD to try it. Not sure if it’s trying to live dangerously or the simpsons episode but I was determined to eat it.

Genpin Fugu is a restaurant that serves fugu and nothing else. There are many branches; however, ‘The Mother’ and I went to the one in Shinjuku. Upon entering the restaurant, there is a fish tank where your meal is still swimming around in it. It is one of the ugliest fish I have ever seen!

‘The Mother’ and I opted for one set course (they are really into their set courses!) plus another serving of hot pot.

We started with the ‘Yubiki’ – boiled chopped skin served with sauce which was AMAZING! The sauce consisted of soy sauce, shallots, garlic and onions. The fugu was fresh, it was a little chewy but eaten with the sauce was quite tasty.

Next the fugu sashimi. The sashimi itself was a little dull and tasteless, it has a similar texture to yellow tail but it has a really interesting effect of numbing your mouth after a few bites. Dipped in sauce, it gave it more flavouring and taste. Surprisingly, both ‘The Mother’ and I really enjoyed it.

The fugu hot pot – now this was incredible and you have to see it to believe it. Cooked on the table in the most amazing pots, it’s a basket with a piece of paper lining – yes just a paper lining! You then cook everything in there – I was amazed and I kept wondering how this paper didn’t rip or whiltered?

The sauce – I LOVED! One of the best I have ever eaten.

The different cuts of fugu – ready to be boiled and eaten.

Cooking the fugu and vegetables.

The boiled fugu was wonderful, it was still a tad chewy and tasteless but again with the sauce was excellent.

The ‘Zousui’ – porridge of rice and egg yolks cooked with the broth and as horrible as it looks, it was actually quite tasty. Similar to that of porridge, it was moist and more watery than porridge or congee. ‘The Mother’ had about three bowls, he definitely enjoyed it.

Lastly, dessert, a scoop of macadamia ice cream, it was creamy with big chunks of macadamia and was the perfect way to end the meal.

I really wanted to try the ‘torafugu karaage’ – deep fried fugu, but ‘The Mother’ was full and well I doubt I could have eaten the whole thing on my own.

Everything was fresh, I have heard that this delicacy can get really expensive. One set meal and an extra hot pot costs about (5900 yen, which is about AUD 72).

We both survived it, so if you feel like you want to live dangerously for a night and want to try something different, go for it, try the fugu!

GA’s ratings: 7.5 / 10

‘The Mother’s’ ratings: 7.5 / 10

Genpin Fugu

2F, 3-8-2 Shinjuku,

Shinjuku-ku, Tokyo

Ph: +81 3 3341 9529

6. Soba and Tempura, Akasuka

‘The Mother’ and I were meeting some friends for lunch who has recently moved to Tokyo for work – LUCKY SOD! So jealous! ‘The Mother’ worked with H and luckily for him, got a transfer to Tokyo to work.

Unfortunately S, H’s beautiful wife, couldn’t be there as she had a big night the night before and was not feeling too great. S had picked this wonderful all you can eat restaurant, she loves food just as much as I do, however, H could not find it, so we went to the first restaurant that we saw which was this soba house, call Tanakaya.

Soba is a thin buckwheat noodles which can be eaten either hot or cold and are great all year long.

‘The Mother’, H and I all opted for the tempura, soba lunch set, except H opted for the cold soba. Prepared in a different way to that of pasta, most Japanese noodles, including soba are rinsed vigorously in cold running water to get rid of excess starch. The cold soba was served on a sieve-like bamboo tray called a zaru with dipping sauce known as soba tsuyu on the side. The tsuyu is made of a strong mixture of dashi, sweetened soy sauce and mirin.

It was a cold day and I couldn’t bear the thought of eating cold soba, so opted for the hot soba. It was served in a bowl of hot tsuyu, which is thinner than that used as a dipping sauce for chilled soba. The soba was cooked to perfection and delicious, I couldn’t help but keep slurping the soba – it was good.

The tempura, was served on a bowl of rice, prawns, fish, eggplant and pumpkin – it was wonderful and a great complement to the soba. The rice was a little too much for my liking!

It was great catching up with H, I am a little jealous of his new venture in Tokyo! It was an enjoyable meal, and reasonably cheap too, about 1400 yen (AUD 20).

GA’s ratings: 7.5 / 10

‘The Mother’s’ ratings: 8 / 10

Soba Tanakaya – www.soba-tanakaya.com

5. Gonpachi, Roppongo Hills

If you have watched kill bill, then you will recognise the battle scene – it is one that is not forgotten easily. Uma Thurman in her yellow jumpsuit with her big samurai sword being all scary and well quite impressive in my opinion. This restaurant can be found near Roppongo hills in Tokyo.

I have heard about this restaurant from various friends, and was keen to check it out (and because I am a Kill Bill fan!). Upon entering, we were greeted by all the staff who loudly shout their welcomes in unison. We didn’t have a reservation but were offered a table by the bar which suited us fine.

‘The Mother’ didn’t want the set menu – too much food he claims so we opted for a la carte. We started with the grilled miso glazed back cod and it was as delicious as it looked! It was served with a mound of grated daikon. The cod was wonderfully cooked, the skin was caramelised and sticky and the miso marinade was delightfully sweet. A great start!

‘The Mother’ and I were highly impressed with the kakuni stewed pork belly with radish served with half a boiled egg. The pork belly was so tender it just fell apart. It was brilliant, we couldn’t help but fight for every single last piece.

The japanese wagyu beef steak was to die for. Served medium rare, the beef just melted in the mouth, no chewing required and the grated daikon was a great complement. This was definitely a winner for me.

The charred grilled eggplant with chicken miso sauce and cheese was delicious. Soft tender eggplant baked with miso and sprinkled over cheese – it was gooey and cheesy. ‘The Mother’ didn’t want any of this, so yes, I ate the whole thing myself! Appalled? I was!

‘The Mother’ opted for the kake soba – plain noodels served in hot broth. It was plain but ‘The Mother’ certainly enjoyed it.

They do have set meals if you don’t want to pick and choose. The restaurant is simple but wonderfully decorated. I love the lanterns hanging from the ceiling. The waitress were attentive and service excellent. It was a fun and buzzing restaurant  at affordable prices. I would definitely recommend Gonpachi, even if its just for lunch and to check out the fighting scene!

GA’s ratings: 8 / 10

‘The Mother’s’ ratings: 7.5 / 10

Gonpachi

1F,2F, 1-13-11 Nishiazabu,

Minato-ku, Tokyo 106-0031

Ph: +81 3 5771 0170

Hope you have all enjoyed part two of Tokyo Eateries. Last post of Tokyo eateries to come shortly.

Tokyo Eateries Part 1

‘The Mother’ and I had such a great time in Tokyo that we didn’t want to leave! It wasn’t our first trip to Tokyo, it was our first time together to Tokyo and it was absolutey fantastic! The food, the shopping, the sight seeing, Japan is truly a magical city and a must visit, at least once!

We caught up with some friends, ate some deliciously good food and indulged in all sorts of snacks and ice cream, especially green tea ice cream – how can you say no to that? We certainly ate well, we tried as many different types of Japanese cuisines as we can and thought I would share it with all of you in the next couple of posts. Food we ate and enjoyed in Tokyo.

10. Tempura: Tsunahachi Restaurant, Shinjuku

Also recommended by the lonely planet, this is the main branch out of eight restaurants in Japan. ‘The Mother’ and I love tempura and this is definitely the place for it. We had the pleasure of sitting by the counter and watched the chefs fry each course and place it on our plate. Located in Shijuku, you can find this delicious fried goodness restaurant near Mitsukoshi department store.

‘The Mother’ and I both had the tempura set, the smallest and cheapest (1999 yen, about AUD25) – two prawns, seasonal vegetables, season fish, congeal eel, shrimps ball, miso soup / rice / pickles.

We started with the traditional two prawns, and wow – excellent. The batter was thin and crispy and the prawn fresh and absolutely delicious.

The seasonal vegetables consisted of only mushroom, which was good, but I expected more, like eggplant and pumpkin, alas, just mushroom. The fish was incredibly tender, again the batter was crispy and excellent.

The congeal eel was a larger serving and cut into two. The fish was firm and delicious.

Last but not least, the shrimps ball which I loved, and by now I was getting a little sick with all the fried goodness.

I am glad we got the smallest set, everything was freshly made and the batter was scrumptiously crunchy and light. If you don’t have a reservation opt to see at the bar – you get to see the chefs in action!

GA’s ratings: 7.5 / 10

3-31-8     Shinjuku, Tokyo Prefecture, Japan

Ph: +81 3 3352 1012

9. Shabu shabu: Kurumaya, Shinjuku

We were originally looking for a different shabu shabu place, but couldn’t find it and found this instead. Kurumaya is also a yakitori place but ‘The Mother’ and I were cold and wanted something warm. Shabu shabu is a type of Japance hot pot. It is similar to that of sukiyaki, in that they both use thinly sliced meat and vegetables but shabu shabu is more savoury and less sweet.

Our pot on top of a bunsen burner where we steamed (or cooked) our food.

The dipping sauces.

The beef – we opted for wagyu beef and WOW, it was delectably tender and just melted in your mouth! We ordered two servings of this, and I could have easily eaten a third serving. To think that I didn’t eat beef for a good ten years!

The pork was good, but the wagyu beef was a definite winner!

Here is how we cooked the wonderful dish.

Last, the noodles, cooked in the broth and eaten with the broth.

‘The Mother’ loved it, I do prefer shabu shabu over sukiyaki – it tends to be too sweet for my liking. They do have English menu, service was good and total bill was about 4800 yen, which is about AUD59.

GA’s ratings: 7.5 / 10

‘The Mother’s’ ratings: 7.5 / 10

2-37-1 Kabukicho,Shinjuku,

Tokyo Prefecture 160-0021, Japan

Ph: +81 3-3232-0301

8. Sushi and Sashimi: Tama Sushi, Ginza

You can’t go to Japan and not eat sushi and sashimi. ‘The Mother’ and I were shopping at Ginza, which is apparently Tokyo’s answer to NYC’s Fifth Avenue.

Tama Sushi is located just a short walk away from the glamorous Ginza shopping district. I didn’t know at the time, but apparently this restaurant has all you can eat sushi which is a good deal for a pair of people. Apparently two women dining will costs 6,300 yen (AUD 77), two men dining will costs 8,400 yen (AUD102) and a couple 7,350 yen (AUD 90). Unfortunately, ‘The Mother’ and I didn’t realise that and besides I don’t think we could eat all you can eat sushi.

The sushi and sashimi here is fresh. Apparently the chef can make whatever it is that you want. I opted for Tsukiji Nigiri (2,625 yen, AUD 32) – variety of sushi with miso soup and dessert. I love the different types of sushi, king fish, tuna, prawn, scallops and many more. They were all fresh and absolutely fantastic, especially the tamagoyaki, it was sweet and not sickening, and scrumptiously good.

It was SO good that I did have order another serve of the tamagoyaki sushi and it was divine.

With my set, it came with eel and the eel was magnificent. Sweet and my goodness, it was a small piece but one of the best I have ever eaten.

‘The Mother’ opted for the edo chirashi different types of sashimi served on a bed of rice and also served with miso soup, rice and dessert. The sashimi was fresh and superb. ‘The Mother’ certainly enjoyed it.

The green tea ice cream with red bean was a little frosty at first but it was deliciously creamy and deliciously sweet – I wanted a second serve of this but it was one of those occassions where my eyes were bigger than my stomach!

We stumbled across this restaurant and it was definitely a great find. The sashimi and sushi were fresh, tasty and absolutely magnificent. Service was excellent, its a tiny restaurant, so come early or be prepared to wait.

GA’s ratings: 7.5 / 10

‘The Mother’s’ ratings: 8 / 10

Ginza Core Building

B2F, 5-8-20 Ginza, Chuo-ku, Tokyo

Ph: +81 3 3573 0057

Till next time, Part two of Tokyo Eateries….